Fitted Gown 5/15/2011– Pink Wool to Match Pouch and Hood

May 15, 2011 at 12:28 pm (14th Century Gowns, Current Projects, Sewing and Garb)

Similar to the 5/14/2011 gown, this post is to help me remember what pattern I am using and what changes need to be made.  Please see that previous post for more details on the pattern itself and how I currently fit self supportive gowns.

Used pattern from yellow cotton, which was roughly drafted from black wool gown (current favorite of my self supportive fitted gowns) Changed the arm hole based on observations from the purple linen gown.  (Used paper pattern adaption)

Pattern has 1.5 inches seam allowance added to it, but based on mock-up, gown should be sewn with 1 inch seam and then fitted after to be supportive (sewing with 1.5 inches barely fits, so with lacing and fitting, 1 inch should work)

Pattern has no gores, but front and back gores should be added. (Sides gores are accounted for with the extra width built into each panel of the skirt) Gores are cut from 1 yard square piece.

Fabric used: Pink Wool

Thread for hem and eyelets: Pink Silk

Notes:

Paper adaptation for the sleeve definitely helped, but my carelessness by cutting too quickly has made the arm holes just as large in this gown as in the purple linen.  Oh well, the sleeves are still okay, and next time, I’ll take it a little slower.

Sides have small puckers under the arms, due to not quite getting the fit right before putting in the sleeves.  Its barely noticeable, as its under my arm, and will likely not even show when I’m moving and walking, but I need to remember that the sides need to be fit all the way to the top before the sleeves are set in.

Update: 5-21-2011

This dress and I are no longer friends.  From the bust down, it looks really nice and everything fits properly.  However, I’ve discovered that there’s a good bit of stretch to the fabric, and so hanging the dress after sewing it has led to some.. issues.  The underarm puckers are now definitely noticeable, although I think some tweaking can fix that.  Also, the neckline has come out a bit uneven, and there are multiple wrinkles in the sleeve and neck seams.  Overall, I think I’ll be very happy wearing this dress with a hood, but will avoid wearing it without one.

Update: 10-28-2011

I have finished all of the hems and half of the eyelets for this dress.  It has taken me this long to decide I want to even tackle the issues with the side seams, and even now I’ve come to the conclusion that I want to just leave them be for a bit.  The dress does not scream “wow, what a disaster” and its really only if you analyze the side seams that you noticed the issues, and so I think until it needs to be re-fitted due to changes in size, I will leave it as it is and just refrain from wearing it when I want to look overly nice.  It has been a good lesson in the fact that not every dress needs to look fabulous to be functional, and this one will be a nice warm layer to either wear with a hood or under a better fitted gown :-)

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